I have began working with the PD72042B again thanks to some chats with Slden over in Russia. He is not using it himself, but in talking to him he gave me some ideas. Now that I am working on a new schematic in the Eagle Cad software I need a library of the chip but one is not provided by EagleSoft (obviously).
I have created a library for the PD72042B in the past but it was not good enough to use on a real board. So this time around I decided I would take my time and really put it together as it should be. Its created from all of the package information provided in the NEC data sheet which can be found here: http://www.necel.com/function/en/iebus/d72042b.html.
The package is a 16-PIN PLASTIC SOP. I have attached the Eagle library file below, named IEBus.lbr. Leave a comment if you get some use out of it or if you find any problems with it. I have not produced a board from this at the time of posting, so please pay close attention to the pads before sending off anywhere to be made just to be sure. I would hate for someone to waste some money on one of my silly mistakes.
With Dave’s help, the video switcher relay circuit is setup and working. I have not yet hooked up the actual wires that control the video toggling on Dom’s unit to the relay because its all pretty well installed in the car. I would do it tonight but its raining outside. For now (testing), the relay is hooked to an LED and will toggle on or off for each touch of the cancel button on the dashboard. That is working perfectly, so when the normal toggle switch for Dom’s unit is removed and the two wires are instead hooked into the relay (replacing the led), I see no reason why it would not work to switch the video over.
Going forward, I am thinking of making the button that causes the relay to flip, programmable on the circuit. I could modify IEBus Studio to handle talking to the unit to program the button sequence and write it to the internal EEPROM. Maybe even putting in a couple more relays that are controlled the same way. So basically you would program a button sequence into the module that will flip a relay to do whatever you want.
Hopefully this nasty weather and the cold I caught from it will subside soon and I can move forward with some more testing. I need to get a working PCB, this breadboard is a huge pain in the ass to lug around.
Anyways, thats all I have for an update right now. I hope everyone is enjoying the holidays!
Well its been a long time coming but when I finally received the ‘C’ connectors this week, I made a harness from them to gain access to the ACC for starters. I had installed the PC in the trunk already but was waiting on these parts so that I could hook up the ACC line to have the PC start when I turn the key.
Once it was all hooked up, I connected the IEBus development board, started the Mouse Control test application on the carpc, started up Media Engine (a carpc front end application) and got my wife to test it out with me while I rolled the video camera.
Needless to say, everything is working well together. The firmware is translating the IEBus signals to text and transmitting over serial to the PC, the DLL (built from event discoveries in IEBus Studio) catches those signals and makes them available as software events. The Mouse Control test application has defined event handlers that will move the mouse and click on the location that came over the IEBus when I touch the screen.
Here are a couple pics of the setup:
I have put together a quick video of it that you can see here:
I decided to go ahead and place the order for the C connectors. Due to a request I received in email, I will be selling both a harness that will terminate to a DB9 connector (just like the AH-20 harness) as well as a DIY kit that will come with a plug, cap, DB9 connector and 10 of the special metal connectors needed for assembly of the 8 pin plug (two extras).
C Connector Harness $45.00
C Connector DIY $20.00
I have also decided to offer a DIY kit for the AH20 harness. It will include both the plug and the cap connectors, the DB9 connector and 25 of the special metal connectors needed for assembly of the 20 pin plug (5 extras).
AH20 Connector DIY $25.00
Contact me via, robbienewton [aT] gmail [d0t] com to place an order!
I may be able to get some of the C connectors (8 pin) for the back of the navigation unit. Would anyone be interested in a harness to gain access to the wires on that plug without damaging anything?
So far I have had one person request it and have been thinking about doing it for myself to get to ACC, Power, and Diagnostics in the trunk. With a simple little harness for this you could make any solution involving those wires, plug n’ playable.
Let me know if it would be worth it for me to order some. It has to be a bulk order, therefore it would be quite an investment on my part, so if you care, please leave some feedback.
The reference to the “C” connector is from my 2006 ETM. Click on the thumbnail below to see a PDF with an image of the connector.
I made a video showing a recent test that I did with the latest version of the mouse control software. The software shown in this video will cause the mouse to move to the touch event’s coordinate and click. This is triggered by the touch event handlers in a DLL which was produced by IEBus Studio. The grid application shown in this video is merely there to provide a visual representation of the clicks.
Recently my niece, Katlyn Jade, who is only two years old, has started to blame me for when the stars do not show up at night because its too cloudy. So my Mom started calling my cell phone and letting Katlyn tell me personally that the stars are not out. Well last night she called, handed the phone to Katlyn while it was still ringing and without knowing, Katlyn left me a voice mail message and I thought it was so cute, I recorded it and put it up here for my Dad to listen to. (Since he lives out of the country)
I completed the etching process of my first printed circuit board tonight. It took a lot of work just to learn how to use the Eagle software to produce the board layout but once I had it done I printed it onto some generic glossy laser paper. Next I took it downstairs to the ironing board, and armed with a piece of cardboard to stiffen the ironing surface, the heat from the iron began to transfer the toner from the printed piece of paper to the blank copper PCB.
After about 4 minutes (read online that 4 minutes was a good time to ensure a good transfer) I took the board with the paper now stuck to it, and put it into a plastic container filled about an inch high with hot water. Immediately I began to see the paper coming away from the copper and forming little bubbles between the paper and the board. Finally, after about 30 seconds of watching the water soak into the paper, I grabbed the corner of the paper and pealed it off like a sticker. Most all of the paper came off leaving behind the toner and a little bit of the paper that rubbed off with my thumb very easily.
Next it was time to put the board into a bath of etchant. I went all cheap and purchased the little $15 kit from RadioShack to test all of this out, but I plan to put together an acrylic bubbler along with some of that nice Ammonium Persulfate that is see through. The board sat in the etching chemical for a little over an hours just because I didn’t feel like babysitting it and went to watch some boob-tube. When I came back the board was done and I transfered it back to the water to deactivate the chemical.
Now that the copper that I didn’t want is gone, all thats left is to clean off the toner. This was handled by some of my wife’s finely smelling Acetone (finger nail polish remover) and a good bit of rubbing with a paper towel. The finished result looks like this:
Now all that is left is to drill the holes and mount all of the components. Next time I do this, I think I am going to go with all surface mount components, so I guess its time to hit up digikey again.
It’s been a little while since I updated everyone on the progress so I put together a quick screenshot.
IEBus Studio is definately one kick ass program, if I do say so myself. I wanted to take the time to do screenshots of all the features but its just too late on Sunday night and I have been writing code all weekend. So here is my one screenshot that shows just about everything there is to know about the test event feature.
I should have a video sometime soon of it working in the car. Cross your fingers! We have tested and confirmed that the firmware recieves the event message perfectly, so testing that the firmware can put it on the bus properly is all thats left.